A Hockey Story

Hockey in the streets of Rocinha----

I would love to put more fotos here of the kids but my connection is so slow that it takes about 10 minutes for each one to load..my internet connection is not so good, at least today..

I had the oportunity to go and live in Canada for a bit and I grew to love hockey. Its a very special sport. Canadians passion for hockey is much like what Brazilians have for football (soccer). When I returned to the favela, I brought some hockey sticks back as I thought it would be fun to teach a little street hockey to the kids. Kids are very open minded here and after seeing the Olympic games here on the televisions in the favela, I knew people would like my idea.

I started getting interest after walking through the favela few times just with a stick and ball. Kids would come to me and ask to "try". So, I would give them the stick and show them how to hold it and how to use the ball. They enjoyed it but everytime I would pass by this area the kids would ask about hockey and the sticks and when they could play. I told them that I needed to get more sticks and that I would try to get some.

I have 5 hockey sticks and now about 70 street hockey balls thanks to one visitor from New Zealand, RICHARD HARRI. He has visited my favela twice and this last time he returned with a bag full of these balls. Now I have to get sticks and nets..I decided to post these fotos also to thank the person who Richard purchased these balls from. They will be put to good use as soon as we can get these kids sticks.

I will let you know how it turns out..

Exchange student: Samantinha

foto: Sam and good friend Amy


- Can you tell me your name, where you are from?

My name is Samantha, and I am from Los Angeles, CA.

- Why did you come to Brasil?

I came to Brazil to study abroad through my college. I studied for a year at PUC-Rio.

- When you arrived where did you live?

I lived with a host family I was placed with in Sao Conrado for the first 6 months.

- How did you find out about favelas?

I found out about Rocinha through a friend I was studying with. She told me about how her brother taught English in Rocinha at Instituto Dois Irmaos (i2i), and then arranged a tour with Zezinho to look around before we started teaching.

- Why did you decide to move into a favela (Rocinha)?

I decided to move to Rocinha because I was paying a lot of money to live in a room, and I wanted more freedom to have people over. I was also already there a lot. I went to the gym there, taught there, and most of my friends lived there.

- Before moving here what did you know about favelas?

Before moving to Brazil, nothing much. I had heard about them, but also heard that they were extremely dangerous.

- Since living here, have you impressions of favelas changed much?

Yes, I can only speak for Rocinha, because I haven't spent much time in other Favelas, but Rocinha was a huge city, but felt safer to me than Copacabana.

- What do you like about living in the favela?

I liked that I could be close to all of my friends, and pay less than other places in Zona Sul to live by myself. And I liked being close to the beach and to my school.

- What don’t you like?

Living in Rocinha as a Gringo(a) is very different from being raised there. I had a very privileged life there. I could leave if I wanted to or stay. It is not as easy for people who live there. They are judged differently than I would be for living in a Favela.

- If you had a magic wand and could change anything, what would you change about the favela?

The fact that the children and adults who live in Rocinha don't have the social mobility or options that other classes in Rio do.

- Has your experience been worthwhile?

Yes, I enjoyed teaching and living there. I am moving back to Rio in september!

- What advice would you give someone who wanted to move/stay here?

That you should maybe check it out and see if that is the pace of life you would like to live in before you make the move.

- Would you come back to live here again?

I plan to live in Rio with my boyfriend and so I am not moving back to Rocinha. But it was great for that period of my time in Rio.

- Anything else you would like to comment about regarding life here?

It is a complex community, full of good and more complicated aspects, and residents that deserve the same level of respect as all other members of Rio.

Introducing Shelly Steffler

Shelly (left) with friend Vera Vetter at the top of Rocinha


- Can you tell me your name, where you are from?

My name is Shelly, and I'm from a small town in Canada near Toronto.

- Why did you come to Brasil?

I came to Brasil to do an internship in Human Resources with one of the biggest companies in the country.

- When you arrived where did you live?

I arrived in August 2010 and spent the first month and a half in a hotel in Copacabana. Afterwards, I moved to Barra (a very wealthy, American-style suburb not far from Rocinha) to be closer to work.

- How did you find out about favelas?

I knew about favelas from watchttp://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifhing City of God, but one of my coworkers from Canada was really interested in them and invited me to do a tour of Rocinha with Zezinho. I was really nervous, and wanted to leave my backpack at work - my friend told me 'Shelly, if this backpack was full of gold, I'd feel fine walking with it in Rocinha.'

- Why did you decide to move into a favela (Rocinha)?

Zezinho introduced me to people in the community while we were on the tour, and because they knew I was so interested in volunteering, they offered to show me around again. I started teaching English and making friends, and soon, I was spending most of my free time in Rocinha.

- Before moving here what did you know about favelas?

I was living in Rio for a few months before I moved to Rocinha, so I knew that favelas didn't deserve the generic 'they're dangerous! Don't go!' warnings that many Brazilians tend to give. I knew they had a rich cultural life and lots of activity, and that most people were not involved with the drug trafficking.

- Since living here, have you impressions of favelas changed much?

I thought there would be a lot more fear, but people talk openly about the problems related to drug trafficers and take police invasions in stride. I initially didn't wander far from the main road, so I thought that people in Rocinha were fairly well-off. I've since been to the poorest areas of the favela, and I now know that quality of life varies a lot.

- What do you like about living in the favela?

I like that there's always someone to talk to, and that it really is a community - people know their neighbours. I like that people are honest and real.

- What don’t you like?

No one likes the garbage! But in addition to that, I don't like that kids, in particular, are exposed to drugs and violence, and that there are so few opportunities for people from favelas.

- If you had a magic wand and could change anything, what would you change about the favela?

Although there are many people from Rocinha getting busaries and going to school, running engaging projects, and trying to better themselves, I feel like there's a bit of a culture of apathy in Rio in general - for example, the politians are all corrupt, so it doesn't matter who you vote for. There might not be a lot of opportunities, but there are some, and people don't always take advantage of them.

- Has your experience been worthwhile?

One of the best of my life!

- What advice would you give someone who wanted to move/stay here?

Learn some Portuguese before you go!! Be prepared for annoyances - your cell phone might or might not work, your water might run out, and you'll probably need to lug gas for your stove to your house. Oh, and buy bottled water - lots of Brazilians drink from the tap, but our stomachs aren't used to their water.

- Would you come back to live here again?

Definately.

- Anything else you would like to comment about regarding life here?

Don't pass up an opportunity!

Christian Dugdale's Rocinha Experience

Christian on my Roof top in Rocinha

Christian had contacted me sometime ago about wanting to live in Rocinha. He had been working in other favelas as a volunteer so living here would not be a shock to him. I am so happy that he has written so much about his experience here in Rocinha. I know he misses Rocinha very much and tells me often how he wants to return here to stay. Rocinha does that to people. Rocinha is like a mother that cares for its young. And I dont know why but foreigners come with no prejudice and get the most out of learning about the culture and life here in the favela. Enjoy!!

- Can you tell me your name, where you are from?

Christian Dugdale. I'm from Britain.

- Why did you come to Brasil?

It was my dream to visit Rio de Janeiro. Then I visited, and decided I had to go back for longer. I spent 15 years daydreaming about Rio before I went.

- When you arrived where did you live?

I initally stayed with a friend's parent in Botafogo.

- How did you find out about favelas?

I first saw a favela on television when I was about 11, on a British TV programme called Network 7. It was amazing to see a vertical city on the side of a mountain. I remember that I was immediately fascinated by what I saw.

- Why did you decide to move into a favela (Rocinha)?

I actually ran short of money after deciding to extend my stay from 3 to 6 months in Rio. I moved because I couldn't afford Copacabana anymore. I was happy to be doing it though, I had spent time in other favelas and enjoyed it.

- Before moving here what did you know about favelas?

I'd done all the research I possibly could because I was so interested in favelas and Rio in general. So I did have a pretty good idea of what it was like, but it would be arrogant to say that I knew what living there was like. That wouldn't be entirely true.

- Since living here, have you impressions of favelas changed much?

I guess so. I mean, I came into the experience with an open mind hoping to enjoy it, so it wasn't like I arrived a skeptic and went home a convert. I was amazed by how much I enjoyed day to day favela culture and just being there though. I knew I would find it interesting, but I was genuinely gutted when I had to leave. Rocinha became my favourite place in the city. I hadn't expected that.

- What do you like about living in the favela?

I love the fact that the favela is about human interaction, that you really get involved in a world that is different to your own. It's a place where you see the bare bones of humanity, for all of its faults and all of its positives. Just watching people, talking to people and being in a place that was so vibrant. I often used to think to myself "I'm alive, I'm alive " over and over again as I walked around. I don't know if that sounds either stupid or pretentious but it's true.

There may be a distinction between Rocinha and other favelas here, because Rocinha does seem to be a fast moving place than some of the others I visited. Some of them are sleepier and quietier than you'd think. Also, just like that little boy who saw TV all those years ago, I couldn't get over the aesthetic of the place. The impossible Escher drawing stairways, the vertically stacked houses, the views of Rio, the winding roads, the sight of the lights of ten thousand houses lit up at night like a beautiful constellation of stars. My breath was taken away so frequently I could hardly breath some days. I loved the way people danced and congregated in stairways at nights. The baile funk parties and the whole culture that surrounded the music, the way that once you were accepted that people really took you under their wing. The look on children's faces when you told them that you came from another country and the way they wanted to ask you a million questions about it. I mean there's a million more things, but that's what comes to mind to start with.

- What don’t you like?

I understand that people don't like the police in the favela. If I was them I wouldn't either. However, the absence of an honest and effective police service does not mean that having de-facto armed dictatorship running your community is a good thing. It isn't. I think its a tragedy that so many kids in Rio in an environment where guns are normal. Unfortunately, I'm not smart enough to come up with the solution to this issue. I can only criticise. That's not perfect I know.

- If you had a magic wand and could change anything, what would you change about the favela?

As I've just said, I wish the favela could be a place free of guns. I wish it could be a place where everyone in Rio, especially cariocas, would want to visit. Finally, I wish something could be done quickly to improve sanitation for residents there.

- Has your experience been worthwhile?

Quite simply, living in Rocinha is the best thing I've ever done in my whole life. I want to live in Rio, and if I get my way I will in the future. I would love to live in Rocinha again. It's absolutely freaking brilliant despite its problems. BRILLIANT.

- What advice would you give someone who wanted to move/stay here?

Do your research, find a contact in the favela to help you visit and take a look first. Then definitely do it.

- Would you come back to live here again?

Yes x 1000. See above.

- Anything else you would like to comment about regarding life here?

Rocinha is an extraordinary place. It's not just a slum.It's an amazing city grafted onto the the side of a mountain, with its own culture, music, rhythm, sounds and atmosphere. When you stand on a roof terrace of someone's house in Rocinha at night, you realise that that the rest of the world is missing out on something they think they don't want to see. Look out over the unbelievable sight of the hundreds of houses as they tumble down Rocinha's tropical slopes towards the Atlantic Ocean and tell me you don't feel anything. YOU CAN'T.

Seana in Rocinha

Seana with one of the kids from Rocinha


Its rare when you meet somebody who truely has a love and passion for a place. I remember one of the lasts days before Seana had to leave and it was so sad. I know she did not want to leave Rocinha. As she says, Rocinha stole some of her heart. She fell in love with the place and people and this is not the first time I have heard this. And I know it will not be the last. I know if it came to it, she could easily live here. She made so many friends who ended up like family for her.

I first had contact with her a few years ago when she contacted me about coming to Rocinha for her school project. She was studying funk music from the favelas. I remember sending her some and her interest in Rocinha became stronger. The one day she sent me a email telling me she was coming. It was so nice to put a face to the emails. She is so sweet, kind and always has a smile on her face..

So, now she is RETURNING in the begining of June. So, I will see her again. I know she is soooo happy to be coming back and I look forwards to her return. But heres a interview I did with her. She is sharing her experiences of favela life.

Enjoy!!!

~Zezinho


- Can you tell me your name, where you are from?



My name is Seana. I am from Florida, U.S.A.

- Why did you come to Brasil?


I came to Brazil because I study Brazilian funk music from the favelas in Rio de Janeiro.



- When you arrived where did you live?


I wanted to stay in Rocinha my first trip to Brazil. But I had a difficult time finding housing there without knowing people there. When I arrived, I stayed in a woman’s apartment in Copacabana where a friend of mine was living.



- How did you find out about favelas?


I have studies the social relations that exist in the favelas in Rio for the last 6 years. I found out about them from studying about street children in Brazil.


- Why did you decide to move into a favela (Rocinha)?

I wanted to move to Rocinha because I study the music there and want to be as close as possible. I decided to move to Rocinha because I feel safer there than anywhere else in Brazil. There is a sense of community like I have never felt anywhere else. People are warm and welcoming.




- Before moving here what did you know about favelas?


I knew that the favelas are a place where drug traffickers control the communities and police invasions occur. I also knew that there is a lot more to favela life. 



- Since living here, have you impressions of favelas changed much?


They have not changed too much, since I tried to learn as much as possible in the years leading up to my first visit, but I never could have imagined the safety I felt while there or the carinho, or affection that I was shown by the people who live there.



- What do you like about living in the favela?


Everything. Rocinha is the kind of place that steals your heart. When I had to leave Rocinha, I would feel the physical absence, a love sickness perhaps, as if I had left someone behind who should be with me at all times. That feeling has never gone away. Even when I had to return to the U.S., my friends claimed that they lost a piece of me to Rocinha.



- What don’t you like?


There is nothing that I do not like about the favela. Life there is what it is. I feel like the benefits of living there outweigh things that might irritate some people. Water use that cuts the power, cold showers, or dog feces in the alleys. 



-If you had a magic wand and could change anything, what would you change about the favela?



I would change the amount of violence people suffer—the (police) raids, the strip searches, etc.


- Has your experience been worthwhile?

Absolutely. I wouldn’t change it for anything.

What advice would you give someone who wanted to move/stay here?


Learn about the culture of the favela and learn to respect it. Being in a favela is not about having an exciting time living in a “dangerous,” “poor,” or “violent” community. It is not something to do to have a story to tell. I believe it is a place where people should live if they are knowledgeable about the culture and respect that exists in the community. They should be willing to learn about and participate in this culture in the same manner that a favela community member would.



- Would you come back to live here again?


Always.

Seana

Foreigners living in Rocinha

Foto: Gary at the top of Rocinha in a area called Roupa Suja.


Spotlight: Gary from Seattle, Washington, USA

I have always thought that one of the best documentries would be someone who could film about foreigners lives here in the favela. The average Brazilian is so fearful of anything when you mention the word favela. But foreigners come with a open mind and want to learn.

The media here in Brasil, especially Rio, has destroyed the image of favela. Making the place out to be a horrible place where theives, vagabonds, drug dealers and anything else bad you can think of lives. If this is real then why would a foreigner chose to live in this type of place? Maybe because they know that the news media exagerates and only bad news sells.

So, I will be posting interviews with many foreigners who have or currently live here. All the answers they give are their own and I will not censure anything.

ENJOY!!!!

Can you tell me your name, where you are from?

My name is Gary Carrier and I am from Seattle, WA USA

- Why did you come to Brasil?

I came to Brazil as an extended journey across Latin America (a land that has fascinated me since childhood) after college to work, volunteer and better my language skills. While researching volunteer opportunities in favelas I came across an organization that operates in Rocinha and was in need of volunteers.

- When you arrived where did you live?

I lived in a 'volunteer house' dedicated to this particular organization's volunteers. The house belongs to the Marinho family and they rent an apartment located on the first level of their home to volunteers. The apartment has two bedrooms, a kitchen, and a bathroom.

- How did you find out about favelas?

Slum communities exist all over the globe, but Brazil's (especially Rio de Janeiro's) seem to be the most noted on an international level. Perhaps this stems from Rio's already famous international image, and the hundreds of favelas cannot be ignored and are inevitably incorporated in this image. I think the film 'City of God' gave Rio's favelas a lot of international attention, and it wasn't positive. However, it provokes interest, which leads to research, which leads to the truth.

- Why did you decide to move into a favela (Rocinha)?

I decided to move into Rocinha for a few reasons. First, being to volunteer my time and help to teach foreign languages to people who have little or no access to the overpriced language schools of the city. This classist language accessibility only further pushes low income peoples deeper into poverty and away from opportunities for economic/social prosperity. Secondly, the 'dangers' of such places are what detour but ironically interest people in them. After having been warmly welcomed and embraced for my work in slum communities of Mexico, El Salvador, and Colombia, I wanted to prove that the stigma of Rio's favelas is perpetuated by restrictively negative reportage by news agencies. Nationally and internationally, these reports shape public opinion of Rio's favelas. I wanted to see for myself what this place was like and to prove to others that it really isn't a dangerous place.

- Before moving here what did you know about favelas?

I knew nothing. What I was told is that they're dangerous, full of gangsters with guns, dirty, and infested with drugs.

- Since living here, have you impressions of favelas changed much?

Yes of course. However, I didn't come here with prejudices of Rocinha. I was aware of what I was told and warned of, but I didn't have prior judgements because my impressions didn't really spawn until I had settled in to this environment. I am young, but I have learned that most of what you hear on the news is B.S. If I lived my life according to the news I would not have had some of the best experiences of my life.

- What do you like about living in the favela?

I like feeling part of a community. I have always valued that. Rocinha feels like a small town, where people know each other, but at the same time you are in a city of roughly 10 million people. You have the connection of a 'small town' while simultaneously having access to the luxuries of a city. It's really a great combination. Having the beach in walking distance isn't a bad thing either!

- What don’t you like?

The list of what I do like heavily outweighs that of what I don't. But, like any community, it has its problem. Traffic; there were no civil engineers present to anticipate the growth of Rocinha, thus its narrow roads and curves don't aid the heavy traffic hours. Buses often get stuck, which backs everyone up and can sometime take hours of maneuvering.

I don't like the drugs. Especially when people consume them in public. I think it is especially damaging to the community and to children who pass by as witnesses. I wish the gang would put an end to the public consumption of the drugs they sell.

I suppose many expect me to answer this question with regards to the gang or the trafficking. However, the traffickers have never bothered me and in my time here, appear to be comparatively respectful to the community and its residents. I don't agree with the practice but I am aware it could be much worse. The only issue I have is the disrespect some show towards their women. I have seen them abused on a few occasions and it's disheartening.

- If you had a magic wand and could change anything, what would you change about the favela?

I would improve the infrastructure of the favela. The buildings are poorly constructed, the roads are inadequate for the amount of traffic and open sewers are something that no community should have to witness. In many of the alleyways, stairs are uneven, and I can only imagine how difficult they are to ascend for elderly or disabled residents. If the community's physical appearance was reflective of it's inhabitants, Rocinha would be beyond beautiful.

- Has your experience been worthwhile?

Absolutely.

- What advice would you give someone who wanted to move/stay here?

Go for it! Not only are you constantly learning in this environment, but people are learning from you. As communities that have been neglected for so long by their government and the rest of society, favela residents, consciously or subconsciously recognize the importance of outsiders exploring their communities. After spending a short time here, people begin recognizing that this is a place of beauty, of community, of immigrants from various regions of the country bring their own customs, music, food, etc. and community of good people.

- Would you come back to live here again?

I'm having a hard time leaving. I'm sure that answers the question.

- Anything else you would like to comment about regarding life here?

What I have discussed here is regarding to Rocinha. My opinions, reflections, and advices are given respective to this community. Rocinha is a very safe favela, but there are favelas here in Rio that even Rocinha residents warn about. Just always be aware, and most importantly, keep an open mind. Doing this I have found what truly makes me happy.

Tourism Development in favela dos Prazeres

foto: Morro dos Prazeres




My contacts with Prazeres have been existant for a little while with out me knowing..I can not remember the complete details but I can give you a general idea of how things came to be.

I have been working with a small guest house in Santa Teresa called CASA 579. I have always believed in trying to give something back especially when it comes to favelas. Favelas are areas that are under served by the city and goverments. Some favelas like Rocinha get more help becase of their size or notoriety. Prazeres and Julio Otoni (JO) are not like that.

I spoke with the general manager of CASA 579 and we decided on working out how I could contribute specifically with the Julio Otoni Favela since this favela is very close to CASA 579. Many people who stay at CASA 579 also volunteer in Julio Otoni. I was contacted sometime ago by a coordinator Thais Corral, with the Julio Otoni Project which is a comunity center for the youth there.

About a month ago, Charles Sisqueira, who is a dance instructor at Prazeres and afiliated with JO contacted me about wanting to know more about tourism. I was suprised that they wanted me to teach them and help get a program started. Apparently some of the youth, Charles and the residents Association of Prazeres wanted to begin this becase of the interest in the surrounding area of Santa Teresa.


A LITTLE HISTORY
Charles has a dance program in Prazeres called Dança pra Galera no Casarão dos Prazeres since 2002 so he has built good relationships in the community. Through his group have passed 213 youth from ages 8 to 21 years. He is istrumental in keeping programs focused in the community, including Galera.com. The website is under contruction now but will be back soon. Galera.com was created in 2004 in Prazeres as a learning group for technology. The first few years were focused on bringing internet to the favela. and teaching basic computer classes to the residents. At the end of the first year the group created a book "E Nois" about the daily life in the favelas of Santa Teresa. This took the collaberation of 53 students from neighboring favelas of Prazeres, Falet/Fogueteiro and Coroa. In 2005 this book was selected for the Victor Civita Education award. In the same year Galera was able to advance to visual programming and they created a animation film "Qual e?" a adventure in Morro dos Prazeres. This film took about a year to make with the help of 21 students. Galera has also been involved with the reformation of a library and after school homework clubs that also teach about manners and kindness. Often life in the favelas can be about agression and abuse, so learning good citizenship will help youth in these areas better understand outside the favelas. There is so much this group and Charles have done to give visibility to Prazeres.

THE START OF SOMETHING NEW
So, yesterday I finally got to meet Charles and talk of their idea. With coordination of about 7 people, they want to bring tourism to Prazeres. I have always been a very strong believer in people from the favelas operating their own tours. They wanted my expertise and ideas on what kind of experience they could give to foreigners. I dont like the term "tour".
When I bring in guests to my favela, they will receive a social experience or a favela experience. I think they need to do the same. Education should be the focus of these "tours".

I know the whole tourism in favelas many may not agree with (and I understand both sides of argument) but at least people on the inside who are living in these favelas get to organize and run the tours. This is so much better than the jeep, van tours that come through Rocinha and give little or anything to the comunity. None of the owners of these companies live here in the favela, and in all my passings have only met 2 guides who work for these big companies that live in the favela.

By ignoring favelas or poverty will not make it go away. These comunities need a voice and as long as some of this money they earn is put back into the comunity, then this CAN be a good thing. The tours should be educational, not "come and see some poor people". The favela image has been destroyed in the media. People here are tired of outsiders seeing their comunities as only a place of thieves, bandits, drunks, addicts, poverty, and any other negative thing you can think of..people in favelas deserve so much more.

I met Charles in Copacabana and off we went to Prazeres. He explained to me beforehand that this tourism idea will also include the much smaller Julio Otoni favela as well. We walked into the community and I met some of the group from Galera.com. One of the guys Jacson came with us as we walked through the favela. We met many people and told them of our idea. Everybody seems supportive.

We decended to the bottom of Prazeres and sat and exchanged ideas. We were joined at a table by Saulo Nicolai, Davi Vitor and Diogenes Santos Lima. All of these young people are part of the Galera.com group. Some speak some English. I am not sure what level of English they spoke becase we only conversed in Portugues. But I did advise them that if doing tours in English, you need be proficent enough to answer any and all questions your guests ask.

foto: The gang of Prazeres 100% FAVELA!! left to right, Saulo, Davi, Zezinho, Charles and Diogenes

I explained a basic outline of how I work in Rocinha to give visitors a "favela experience". Respect and support of the residents is needed to make this happen. I emphasized to them the importance of being organized, being prepared. Visitors want to know about physical infrastructure, politics, sports, culture, music, education, health, land rights, employment, and many of other things. It is the responsibility of the guide to know just about everything about the comunity they live in. If they dont know, then they have to find out by talking to elders, political people in the comunity etc. Marketing their service using pamphlets, flyers, business cards and talking to all the hostels and guest houses in Santa Teresa will help them. Any event in Santa Teresa they need to be there promoting their work. Their project will work if they can put some of the money earned into the film making classes or any other new developments that Galera.com is involved with now.

This was my first "consulting" job. I hope it is not the last. Maybe the city of Rio can hire me to be a "Favela Tourism" specialist. But for now, working to help other favelas earn a self sustaining income is very rewarding and I hope I can help other favela too!

If you are interested in knowing more about the Tourism Project in Morro dos Prazeres in Santa Teresa, please contact
Charles Sisqueira at: charlesisqueir@gmail.com or Saulo Nicolai at: saulonicolai@gmail.com Saulo also has a Blog about things going on in Prazeres, go here: http://nucleoaudiovisual.blogspot.com